textures

Textures: Central Thailand by a zugunruhe

The monkeys of Lopburi menacingly lurking, the history of Ayutthuya, the overcrowded markets, and the terror and beauty of Hellfire Pass. The middle of Thailand is a busy and varied.

Lopburi is pure monkey anarchy that is partially tamed by the two scheduled feedings everyday that quell the casual theft and battery the monkeys are prone to. Ayutthuya was the seat of Siam before the Burmese army rendered it obsolete in the 18th century. The terror of what happened to the Allied prisoners of war at Hellfire Pass is felt through the silence allowed now that the area is a protected park.

The markets a few hours outside of Bangkok are a clusterfuck of annoying tourists. Arriving early is key as by 10-11am Damnoen Saduak is a traffic jam. Though, an hour earlier it’s a peaceful walk through vendors setting up shop and the wonderful smells of noodles and chopped fruit. The railway market at Maeklong is overrun by GoPro strapped onlookers waiting for the train to pass through, while their litter is thoughtlessly piled at the end of the shops. Just up the road from Maeklong is the gem of Amphawa. The canal is wide enough to accompany tourists on boats, ample room on the side streets, plus there’s a sweet upcycle shop that had a St Edward’s shirt prominently on display. 

Lopburi

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Ayutthuya

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Hellfire Pass

Trains and Busses

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Damnoen Saduak

Maeklong

Amphawa

Textures: South Thailand by a zugunruhe

The south is a little bit of a different world. Much more clear water, remarkably warmer, and much higher prices. At times, the tourists or expatriates seem to outnumber the local population. 

The old town in Phuket City still feels colonial and has more in common architecturally with Havana than the cities in northward in the country. The rest of the province is partially mountainous and outlined by sandy beaches that are littered with colorful plant life and plastic bottles.

Koh Phi Phi is this exquisite, biconcave island in the middle of the Andaman Sea. The majority of services are located on the isthmus between the two limestone peaks. The island is so small that the service workers live right outside of, and between, the pricier resorts. A quick walk around the corner takes you from a these resorts to a local neighborhood where discarded sports bar signs rest and picture frames hang from windows. Tourists are charged 30 baht (~$1) when arriving at the island to aid in clean up and trash reduction efforts. Even as trash is collected and shipped off the island, large build ups of water bottles and other trash are still present from the mass amount of tourism the island receives.

Phuket

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Andaman Sea

Koh Phi Phi

Textures: Los Angeles by a zugunruhe

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There’s a documentary that begins with a producer in NYC, describing how he was watching the OJ Simpson chase live on TV. He recalls watching the that white Bronco speeding through cars on the highway and beginning to cry. When asked what was wrong, he responded “That light. It’s just so good”

The natural light in Los Angeles has organically produced styles of lighting and photography through its shear force. That incredibly bright, washed out feel is a natural part of Southern California.

The physical and social diversity of Los Angeles is expansive. The light only makes everything more vibrant.

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Textures: San Marino by a zugunruhe


The Most Serene Republic Of San Marino is a land locked country within Italy. Along with being the fifth smallest country in the world, it is the longest surviving republic and guided by a six book constitution. The tale of this country is fascinating to read but staying for an extended period around the old town on Monte Titano, which is a literal castle in the clouds, can reveal the odd things the area does to cater to tourists.

Wine bottles that honor Hitler, gun shops engulfed by tacky gift shops, kitschy bottles of Grappa labeled “Grappa Della Gnocca” (roughly slang for Grappa of the pussy). It’s a gorgeous place to visit but a conflicting place to be if you don’t want to see pictures of Mussolini and Stalin when you’re just kicking it. Large-scale finance in micro states fuel some weird stuff.

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Textures: Vatican City by a zugunruhe

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Leaning hard into the forgiveness aspect of Christianity, the Vatican exists. 

Theres a level of excess only rivaled by Versailles. Even then, that was a ruling class, rich folks who sought power, not the arbiter of a god that favored helping those in need and discouraged the hoarding of wealth.

Kilometers of symmetrical marble, classical masterworks, and a pope space suit really round out the absurdity of this place. The smallest country on Earth, whose actions affect a very large portion of the world and whose presence has absolutely nothing to do with money. 

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